Knitting Tips & Tricks
I spent years using the same cast on and cast offs, without realising there were so many more options that would have been better. There are so many fantastic tutorials on how to knit and techniques. I have listed a few that I use below and the links to the videos.
Cast on
Long Tail Cast On
This cast-on is super quick and provides a very neat elastic bind on. It does stretch more than the knitted cast-on and it is my prefered method. The hardest part is working how much of a tail you need to allow for, but in this easy to follow tutorial she even shows you how to figure that out. Super simple. Have a go - it’s really rewarding
Cable Cast On.
This cast-on method isn’t very stretchy but sometimes designers use it as it has a very pretty edge to it. It's good for jumpers that are loose-fitting and don‘t need to be stretched that much to put on.
Knitted Cast On.
Not to be confused with the cable cast on this is another method that provides a neat edge. It's slower to work than the long tail cast on, but it was the first cast on that I was taught and is very simple. Sometimes you need to use the knitted cast on for working a sweater in the round when you need to pick up stitches for the sleeves. It's a handy one to learn.
Longtail Tubular Cast On.
I love this cast on especially for hats, sleeves and around neck edges. It looks like the knitting wraps around the edge of the fabric. It's a professional-looking cast on and will certainly take your project to the next level.
Provisional One-Step Cast On.
Some patterns need to have live stitched joined together. I have used this method when working on the Millwater Cowl. You can graft the two ends together after knitting the project. All you need is some waste yarn in the same gauge as your working yarn, but do yourself a favour, take it from me with experience, make sure it’s in a contrasting colour or it will become mighty confusing.
Corded Cast On.
Another cast on which provides a decorative edge that doesn‘t curl. Perfect again for when the design calls for it. Also a really nice alternative for starting sleeves that don‘t have a ribbed cuff.
Cast Off
Sheena’s Stretchy bind-off for 2 x 2 rib
I just discovered this bind off on Youtube. I found while Jeny’s stretchy bind-off was great, it looked a bit untidy for using around a collar. This is perfect on a 2x2 rib and the edge looks incredibly neat, it snaps back and it really does stretch. It’s my new go to.
Stretchy bind-off for rib bands (Jeny’s Surprising Stretchy Bind-off)
This bind-off is simple and neat. It provides loads of stretch for a cuff or rub band. Compared to the super stretch bind off, you really can’t see it much. I would go up a needle size while casting off.
Super stretchy bind off for socks and cowls
This bind-off is extremely stretchy, more than the one above. Great for anything where you really need a tonne of stretch and Jeny’s stretchy bind-off doesn’t quite stretch enough. The tutorial gives examples of straight bind off in knitting aswell as a ribbed bind off. I have listed the website and also a link to the Youtube video.
https://sheepandstitch.com/library/how-to-knit-a-stretchy-bind-off/
Tubular Bind Off
This bind-off does what is states on the packet. It gives a very professional bind off and looks exactly like a tubular bind-on. I used in on my Ancaster dress for the bind off in 1x1 rib and it worked a treat. There is a couple of set up rows and it is a little tricky but the end result is so worth it.
Short Rows (German)
This method of doing short rows has completely revolutionized my knitting. I really struggled with the other method which left noticeable bumps in the garment and just looked darn right sloppy. It is super easy anyone can do it.
Cables
Cable U hook
The best thing for cables I find is a cable needle which is like a hook. It makes it really easy to manouver the stitches to either the front or the back depending on the pattern.. It also helps to use a really small gauge so it doesn‘t stretch out the stitches on crossing them. This stops any big loops or gaps from appearing in the work.
Colour coding charts
I have also found that if you are doing charted cables the best method I have found is to colour code the cables in pencil with the legend. You can see much easier at a glance which type of stitch you need to do. Wonder if designers will ever take that on board when designing the charts.
Increases
There are many ways of doing increases and it depends on the final look you want to achieve. In this video by Very Pink Knits. She demonstrates each of the types of increases and how they look. Great for a raglan sweater knitted from the top down. I personally prefer the M1L and M1R (Make 1 Left leaning Increase / Make 1 Right Leaning increase) as they are almost seamless.
Sometimes the pattern calls for a more decorative raglan increase - it all depends on personal preference.
Decreases
Like the decreases mentioned above, there are also just as many ways of decreasing stitches. It depends on how noticeable you want the stitch to be. This video comes in handy if the pattern you are knitting doesn't specify the type of decrease required, as it shows very clearly how they will look. There is most likely even more than mentioned here, but that's why Youtube is so great for learning a new technique.
Yarn Over (YO)
I always get confused about which way to wrap the yarn over, especially after a purl stitch. Here is an easy way to remember - the stitch always leans to the left with the leg to the front ie just like this \. I spent years doing them round the wrong way and couldn‘t figure out why my eyelettes were really small. When you do them around the wrong way they are also difficult to knit into the next row.
Here is a handy tutorial for next time. by Purl Soho which includes doing a yarn over before and after a purl.
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Grafting
Kitchener Stitch
This is a handy tutorial especially if you need to join cables or in pattern between a knit and purl stitch. The end result is completely seamless. Just don’t pull the yarn too tight.
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